Into the arctic

 July 14th    Lurøy - Myken

There is no clear definition on what the Arctic is. I lean toward the latitude definition, i.e. the part of the earth north of the northern polar circle. And today I passed through that imaginary line, with no ceremony other than enjoying the spectacular landscape and nice weather. 

Destination for todays sail was the Myken i tiny village and archipelago around 20 nm out in the Norwegian sea. 

I actually got to sail some even if the trip started with mirror flat seas. I also got the first symptoms on a problem that would pop up several times in the days to come even if I didn't understand what the problems was yet. Todays symptom was that the autopilot suddenly turned itself off while I was under deck using some of the facilities there. With the autopilot off the rudder was turned hard to starboard and before I could rush up onto deck (not full dressed) the boat had turned at least 360 degrees. Luckily there where plenty of space so I didn't run into anything.  

Today there are around 10 year round inhabitants. Even if fishing was the reason for populating a group of tiny barren islands far out in the sea, todays Myken todays inhabitants are artists, tourist host and most famously whisky makers. In 2014 two intrepid risk seekers decided to establish the first arctic whisky distillery here. Since the process of making whisky is time consuming it took several years before they had any products to sell. So to fill the product range while waiting for the whisky to mature they also started producing gin. A gin they have received awards for that they due to Norwegian alcohol legislation is not allowed to tell about. The distillery is open for tours and tests, but I arrived to late and left to early, and as a non-drinker the testing isn't interesting. 

The light, nature, vistas etc. that I got to experience on my one night here was fairly exhilarating and I am not sure that alcohol was needed for anybody here today to get feel the magic.

The beginning of real holiday

 July 10th - 13th    Sandnessjøen - Lurøy

Despite have gotten glimpses of the upcoming sailing holiday I was really ready for a break from work. So much so that I felt the need to quit early and leave for the islands after lunch. (I always keep some excess hours on the clock to have this freedom, urgent tasks allowing of course)

There where a really nice southwesterly breeze today so I was really eager to get the sails up. The fenders and ropes was tidied away in a rush and I turned the bow to the wind to unfurl the main inside the harbour.    Since I still was going north, point of sail was pleasantly reach and later broad reach before ending ut as a run as my course became more and more easterly. Admittedly I have a lot left to learn to trim my sails efficiently for reaching but today that didn't matter since the wind was strong enough to give good speed anyhow.

I spent a couple of days at my childhood paradise of Lurøy and did some social distancing with my cousins that has taken over the house I spent my childhood summerholidays.

A remote (office) week

July 6th - July 9th    Brønnøysund - Tjøtta - Sandnessjøen 

The final work week before the official summer holiday was spent working daytime and some afternoon sail northwards. Monday however was spent in port. The northerlies was a little to strong for a pleasant sail. 

In the afternoon two square rigged traditional Norwegian boats arrived. The closest one is Fosen Folkehøgskoles 43 fot Åfjordsfembøring Skårungen. Åfjordsfembøring is the boat type. Thus it is a boat with the hull shape and riggingon boats built not only in Åfjord but for any boat built in Trøndelag. Sizewise its a fembøring which were the largest size of fishing vessel . Since the boat is mostly open as traditional norwegian boats used to be they have put up the covers to give protection to the crew for the night. There are a small removable wooden cover in the rear compartment but that is far too small for the entire crew to live and sleep in, thus the covers. Skårungen has no motor they travel by sails and oars only.

The furthest of the two boats is the 39 fot Nidaros. Nidaros is what's called a vengbåt which were used for transport of goods and dignitaries. Nidaros is built at Fosen Folkehødskole in 1997. On a vengbåt the  the rear compartment has a permanent cover (a venge). And the aftership is squared off giving more space in the rear compartment, probably to the cost of being harder to row.

On Tuesday the wind had subsided some and swinged more westerly (and favourably for the direction I wanted). So after work I casted off towards Tjøtta. Mostly motor but I got an hour of sailing at least.

When docking I got a reality check for doing it singlehandedly. I chose the lee side of the dock. Normally I lasso a rope from the midle of rear cleat of the boat around a cleat on the dock at the rear corner of the boat and controls the boat with the engine going forward until I have secured sufficient lines to stop the engine. If the dock has rings, that cannot be lassoed i use my hook and moor stick to tread the mooring line through the ring while on the boat. But at Tjøtta you tie to steel pipe railings that are to wide for the hook and moor. Therefore I had to go onto the dock to tie off without having full control over the boat. And I by mistake I didn't disengage the gear fully so there where some reverse thrust left. Before I was able to secure any lines the boat drifted away from the dock. I had thrown several lines onto the dock but only managed to grab one before the drifting boat drew them off. With quite some effort against the light wind and engine in reverse I managed to haul the boat back secure the line I had. Reach one of the other lines that where tied to a cleat further back on the boat and haul the boat alongside to the dock, secure and then "depanic". 

Wednesday afternoon I motored up to Sandnessjøen. Where I had thursday had a lazy harbour afternoon (that was supposed to be for boat work)  

The longest day

 July 3rd - July 5th    Stokksund - Ottersøy - Brønnøysund

A strong rain shower at the end of office hours killed the wish for an afternoon sail on fridag. And another night in Stokksund.

Saturday morning I set out in weak headwind prepared to motor the entire day. Since it was going to be motoring I chose the innermost, narrowest and most twisted route through Flatanger. At least innermost for a boat with 17 m air draft.

Originally I had planned to go to Utvorda on Saturday and to tackle the open stretch across Folla on Sunday morning. But when I arrived at Utvorda before six in the afternoon and Folla was flat calm and the weather was sunny I decided to press on. There where no free large enough guest spots in Rørvik when I arrived at 20.30 in the evening, but I knew from an earlier year that there was possibilities at Ottersøy on the other side of the sound. At 70 nm this became the longest leg I have single-handed up to now.

The environment around the marina is industrial and not very inviting, but as a short stopover it is really sufficient. I was finished with all post sail activities and dinner at around eleven o'clock. When planning the next leg I discovered that from around noon a strong headwind was forecasted so I had to settle for a short night. At 5.30 I was ready to cast off again. 

I chose to go on the outside of the island Leka and thus was able to se the for Norway unique yellow stone. Since I started much earlier in the morning than yesterday the highest milage for a day for me single-handed was achieved when passing Leka at 91 nm.

North of Leka I started on the part that was the reason for starting early where a strong northeasterly wind would make steep waves that are unpleasant and slow going against. Luckily I came quite far up Torgfjorden before the wind gained unpleasant strength. 

Just before tucking in to the narrow sounds south of Brønnøysund I met several boats running down the wind that my Volvo was working hard to overcome. I must say I was tempted to turn around and join them. 

 June 29th - July 2nd Brekstad - Dypfest - Stokksund (Kuringvågen marina)

Spent a couple of days working remotely from the boat and provisioning and readying the boat outside working hours. 

On Wednesday I decided that I was ready to leave for several weeks on the move north. So after the paying work was over I cast off with at least 6 weeks of sailing ahead of me. The first on and a half of these weeks would be while sailing after a full workday. Luckily cell phone coverage is sufficient for remote working most places and marinas are scattered along the coast close enough to sail form one to another after work hours. 

The first leg was the 17 miles to the very small (and shallow as I was to experience) marina/ferry quay of Dypfest. On pictures it seems like a perfect day for an afternoon sail, sunny and with just enough wind to get a decent speed under sail. What doesn't show is the un july like temperatures, long johns, spring gloves and a knitted hat was needed to stay comfortable. 

A short rain shower in the evening produced a spectacular rainbow framing the (very) small ferry that utilises Dypfest to connect the island of Tarva to the mainland.

Thursdays working day ended in a meeting with the director of the entire agency. It was a little strange for me to insist that we had to end the meeting as scheduled since I had to cast off to avoid being grounded at low tide. With little usable wind and nice but unremarkable weather the afternoon motor became unremarkable. I ended up 22 miles further north though so the aim of the day was still achieved.

One nice thing was that Hurtigruten passed med showing that they was up and running again after having been shut down completely due to lack of passengers in turn due to covid. The schedule is limited and less than very other trip is sailed, but at least some is out making some kind of normalcy.

Summercruise 2020 - prologue - commuting

June 27th - 28th 2020 Sørumsand (train) - Trondheim - Brekstad

 

To reduce the risk of spreading of the Covid19 disease a work from home if you can order was in effect in Norway. 

 

Since I have the boat in Brekstad at the mouth of the Trondheimfjord whilst living outside Oslo some 500 km away commuting to the boat is a trip. This time I took the seven hour train ride over the mountains to Trondheim.

 

Since I take this train several times a year I tend to view the trip as hassle before I get on the train. But being there and not being able to not glance through the windows and being reminded that the train ride is an attraction in itself.

 

 

Arriving in Trondheim I checked in to my non air-conditioned hotel (at 30 degrees celsius) in Trondheim and spent a sweaty night there. Next day I visited my parents before taking the high speed ferry out the fjord to the boat in some kind of omnious weather..

 

Remote working and afternoon loafing in Brekstad

June 2nd - June 7th Brekstad 

The week after pentecost I stayed in the boat doing covid safe stay at home work in the day and loafing around in the afternoon.

On afternoon I took my trusty Bromton up to Lundahaugen and the top of the second hand 28 cm guns that where the main battery of the WWII vintage Austrått Fort. Second hand since it originally was turret C on the battlecruiser Gneisenau. I haven't been into the fort since I was a little child and hope to be able to revisit after the covid pandemic is over.

Another afternoon the ferry port of Garten (port seems pretentious for such a tiny harbour and the ferries does not roam very far either) became the destination for an afternoon bike trip.

For me with limited physical ability, (due to my unlimited ability to loaf) biking in the flat landscape of Ørland is quite pleasant. So another advantage for the homeport I have chosen, since this flat landscape is very unusual in Norway.